Friday, October 20, 2006

Natural organic gardening

That's definitely an interesting perspective. My problem with petroleum is twofold -- one, it is not something I could produce or acquire locally, and two, it's not sustainable or renewable. The rock powders I could make myself with nothing more than rocks and a hammer if I were so inclined, and as long as the earth remains, there will be rock. I don't see oil that way.

Even if it's a poorer source of nitrogen than oil-based products, won't compost (particularly composted manure) get the job done? That's a completely free and renewable resource. My garden beds this year are heavily composted with manure and the plants are all absolutely gorgeous.

Next year I want to use the Mittleider Method, as it looks very
efficient. Will I be shooting myself in the foot if I use "farm-raised nitrogen"?


If you believe the day is coming when we won't be able to get mineral nutrients, you should definitely learn how to prepare and use the organic materials that you WILL have available to you.

For those of you who feel strongly about continuing to use manure and compost, just make certain that you learn how to compost properly, and always do it - with sufficient heat to kill all pathogens.

I recommend you read my article on The Zoo-Doo Man in the Articles section of this group site. That will help you understand what's required, as well as my perspective on the issue.

Once you solve the issue of proper composting you will want to understand, and know how to deal with, the issues of salinity and deficiencies.

Because there is no practical way of knowing how much of the 13 nutrients your compost has in it, you will very likely be faced with deficiencies of some of them. These will show up in your plants, and if you recognize and treat them quickly you can save the crop. Sometimes a garden crop is lost when an ounce or two of zinc, iron, boron, or manganese would completely solve the problem.

I highly recommend you get the Mittleider Garden Doctor books and begin to use them. They will save their cost many times over! And we will be having Christmas Specials running in the next 30 days, where you can get the Garden Doctor books for a special price.

Another issue that needs to be addressed when using manure and compost is that of too much at the beginning and not enough later on. Most people apply 2"-4" and work it into their garden before planting. Doing that to the entire garden is wasteful of compost, and most of the nutrients go to feed the weeds in the aisles. So to start with, apply compost and manure only to your bed area.

Next, how much should you apply? Three inches of manure applied to the 45 square feet of a 30'-long soil-bed would weigh 200-300#, and would contain 2-3# of each of the major nutrients, plus lesser amounts of the secondary and micro-nutrients. We only apply about 2 OUNCES of each of the major elements to a soil-bed before planting, so the 3" application of compost puts 15 to 20 times more mineral salts into the soil than is needed right then.

This much salt in your soil may stop or even reverse the process of osmosis that takes moisture and nutrients into your plants, which will harm or kill your small seedlings.

Therefore, apply only about 1/2" of compost to your planting area before planting, and after your plants are up add another 1/2" to the surface of the planting area and work it into the surface of the soil. Continue this process every two weeks - until 3 weeks before harvesting for single crop varieties, and until 6-8 weeks before the first frost for everbearing crops like tomatoes, cucumbers and squash.

I know how to prepare and use manure and compost, and have done it very successfully. I choose to use natural mineral nutrients because 1) it is so much easier and less costly, 2) we eliminate problems such as pests, weed seeds, and diseases, and 3) we eliminate 13 unknowns by accurately providing our plants with everything that they need.

Jim Kennard

Wednesday, October 18, 2006

What you can use for growbox material

I don't get clean sawdust -or sand for that matter- so, I am wondering if it OK to use the shavings they sell as "Bedding" at a nearby farm store

Shavings do not work well - as sawdust. You can, however, if you can get a GOOD chipper/shredder or hammer mill, chop them up much more finely - then screen them - and use the finest of the materials, that will by that time be almost like sawdust.

This is what you need to do with pine needles also. They are not good whole, but shredded finely they make excellent material.

Jim Kennard

NOTE Do not use anything from a Black walnut tree, they contain a chemical which tends to kill other plants around them. It is natures built in self defense mechanism.

Monday, October 16, 2006

When to apply preplant mix


When using the preplant fertilizer application is this application
before each sowing of a crop in a particular space or is this once a
year. It seems like adding the preplant before each crop the PH ofo
the soil will eventually get very alkaline over time since the lime
breaks down so slowly.

Apply the Pre-Plant mix one time for each crop grown. If someone actually grows 3 or 4 crops per season for an extended period of time they are very likely doing it commercially, and will be in a position to check their soil pH occasionally. I've never seen a family gardener grow several crops each year in the same space over time, and so don't believe we need to worry about that.

The greater likelihood is that a family gardener will forget or neglect to apply lime often enough, rather than too often. And you can apply a LOT of lime without hurting your soil or your plants. I know of farmers who apply a FIVE YEARS' supply at one time - although I certainly don't recommend it!

Jim Kennard